but not really sorry, since I was blessed to be able to make another trip to Denver to be with Jenn and Will while Ben was out of town. I was amazed at how Will's speech and motor skills had progressed just in the week and a half I was back home! His sense of self is also increasing and there were a few moments of drama here and there, but I am so happy with the parenting skills both Ben and Jenn are showing as they deal with the "terrible twos" -- they are lovingly firm and consistent. It was awfully hard to leave, but the Lord willing, both John and I will be out there in mid-summer to play with Will and to be introduced to his new sibling!

to be so far behind -- my travel diary was interrupted by a trip, would you believe? Just got back from a wonderful Denver visit with Ben, Jenn and grandson Will -- had a delightful time as we celebrated his second birthday! I'll try to transcribe another entry or two soon. Thanks for following along with me -- John and I both have enjoyed reliving our trip!

"When we left our hero...." Change of pace this morning -- up, showered and checked out of Cabin 6 and headed for the Running Bear Pancake House. Two "skiers" passed us -- on ski-length roller blades! Great breakfast, post office, a stop by Bookworm Books which I had spotted driving into town last night -- alas, it was shut down and empty -- another one bites the dust! :( Into the park -- visibility seems a little better today (we experienced haze throughout our trip due to all the wildfires). River beside the road is so pretty -- you can see the rocks on the bottom quite frequently. Geese on the edge of the river, which is running faster now as we are headed uphill. Sun is making the ripples sparkle. Cloud shadows on the meadow. Two signs side by side: "Caution. Wildlife on Roadway" and "Bicycles and Pedestrians next 16 miles" ! Buffalo moving majestically through the trees. Passed huge stand of pine trees, sign said "Naturally re-seeded by wildfire 19__" but I missed the date -- judging by the size of the trees, it may have been the 1975 fire or even later. Starting to see columns of steam rising -- planning to come back to those. More and larger -- these spilling over and down the river banks into the river. Stopped at Old Faithful and saw the eruption. John called John David and he spotted us on the webcam and
took our picture. Interesting movie in the visitors' center -- lodge pole pines (tall and scruffy with foliage on top) have cones that are glued together so that only fire unglues them. In a wildfire, the cones pop open and release thousands of seeds, which explains the sign quoted above! Stopped at Biscuit Basin -- several little geysers -- Jewel Geyser blew twice while we were there -- one pool, Black Diamond pool, was a milky green color while the Sapphire Pool was clear but vivid shades of blue as it got deeper and deeper. At least two little springs were bubbling and spraying like a hot tub (wonder if that's where they got the idea?) or a washing machine. Fairly windy -- spray was blowing around and there was a distinct smell, but not unpleasant. John and I started out with caps but had to take them off before the wind did! Next stop: Midway Geyser Basin. Lots of beautiful streams rushing down into the river but these are runoff from the geyser pools and steam is rising from them -- you can hear them hissing when they meet the cold river water! The Excelsior Geyser Crater -- magnificent shades of blue which shifted as the steam drifted across -- through gaps in the steam you could see the water bubbling. The Grand Prismatic Pool couldn't be seen as well though it was supposed to be the same bright blue -- it had streams of bright almost psychedelic orange - apparently some microorganisms thrive in the heat and give it the color. There were 3 hats out in the pool area, including a Junior Ranger hat! Drove around the Firehole Lake Road -- it's funny that I'm starting to recognize some of the tourists at each stop! Firehole Spring bubbling and steaming. Great Fountain Geyser -- in the middle of stone terraces, probably how it got its name. Firehole Lake, more of the little swishing, spraying geysers. It's starting to get late, so decided to head on out as John wants to drive through the earthquake lake valley before it gets dark. On the way out, huge boulders in the middle of the Firehole River with trees sprouting out of cracks in the rock. Saw female elk in the river. One more buffalo grazing right beside the road. Back into Montana, 4:20 PM.
Into West Yellowstone and stopped at Visitor's Center restrooms and then Book Peddler for coffee and tea. They didn't have any plain black tea, but they gave me a cup of hot water and my patient and accommodating husband unpacked the box with the teabags (which of COURSE was near the back of the truck -- or front, since we were unloading from the back) so I could have hot tea. Coming out around the lake, the mountains were really hazy with the smoke from the wildfires in California and Idaho but it's really beautiful with the sun shining on the lake and the blue mountain outlines in the background, like a collage with cutouts in shades of blue and gray. Past the lake and avalanche area with glimpses of the old road down below. UP to the visitor's center -- it was closed but there were several informative plaques around -- what surprised me was that it happened in 1959 and I was sure I remembered hearing about it when it happened. Going now through wide rolling fields, bordered by mountains, still hazy. There's a river over to the left and lots of ranches with the traditional entrances. Fields are giving way to grassy terraces --high ones -- still occasional glimpses of the river glinting in the sun. On top of one of the terraces now and again the impression of wide fields with houses sparsely scattered haphazardly around the landscape. Mountains on the right horizon look higher while the ones on the left are still very misty looking. Coming into Ennis, either llamas or alpacas in a field. Turning north on Hwy. 287 and into new territory. Beautiful blue lake off to the right. Entering Norris with rapidly decreasing speed limits. Small town of Harrison -- building with sign "Inspired Treasures and Tea" -- unfortunately (or fortunately for John!) it was closed. Field nearby plowed in alternating stripes of brown and light tan. Descending into a valley -- green irrigated field and more sunflowers alongside the road. Deer family in green field -- stag, doe, and fawn. Road work -- EXCEEDINGLY bumpy road. Back to wide open spaces with hazy hills on the horizon. Sun setting on the left and silhouetting the mountains. Purple sage on the right? OH NO! More road construction -- no pavement for 5 miles. I'm beginning to develop a suspicion of "Scenic routes" -- they invariably seem to involve discomfort of some sort! Back on pavement -- lake to the right, sunset on the left. Dark -- city lights spread out ahead in the valley -- really pretty. Stopping at Motel 6 in Helena and hoping they'll have a room, preferably on the first floor -- 50 % right, Room 208. 249.9 miles.

Usual routine: checkout, post office, Sam's for gas and on the road to Yellowstone. Passed something called "Pathway Through the Bible, the Biblical Story in Stone" just outside Joliet -- intriguing, but no time to stop. Maybe next time? Sign encouraging pet neutering: "They can't read or write but they sure can MULTIPLY!" Into Red Lodge -- Carnegie Library, courthouse with motto across the top: "Justicia Dedicato" -- and Red Lodge Books and Tea! John very kindly stopped -- marvelous store with new and used books and a tea bar with all kinds of tea and tea equipment. Got a new Winnie the Pooh book at 40% off -- supposedly a sequel using Shepard's illustrations, a used mystery just for reading and a wooden box of Canadian Breakfast tea. New experience at the cash register -- she couldn't print a receipt but offered to email one to me -- she really liked my email address. (Editor's note: I did get the receipt on email when I finally got to where I could check it!) Out of Red Lodge on Hwy 212 and a very active little stream alongside the road -- most of the streams and brooks we've passed have been sluggish at best -- I guess because of the drought. Stopped for road work -- 10 minutes or less according to the sign, so tried to catch up on some postcards, which guaranteed that it was less! Riding with the windows down and we can hear the little stream rushing along! Into the mountains now. John just informed me that it is 2700 miles from our house to John David's and we've already logged 2800! Our little creek is Rock Creek -- John pulled over so I could take a picture. Really in the mountains now -- this road closes in the winter. Major switchbacks -- GPS looks like WWWWWW (Editor's note: that doesn't really do it justice but it's the best I can do with type!). Climbing steadily -- 8700 feet, 9000, 9200 -- and Rock Creek Vista Point. Stop for pictures and back upwards -- Excelsior! 9500 feet --seeing lots of snow patches now. Renewed admiration for the men who build the mountain highways. We are in the Beartooth Mountains -- I'm ashamed to say that I'm really having trouble with this road and I'm not even driving. John pulls over at 9802 feet -- it's easier to look when out of the truck and not moving. (Editor's note: I get very queasy looking down steep cliffs from great heights, especially when I can't see the edge of the road and there is no shoulder to speak of.)
Brush is beginning to turn yellow on the hills. 10,108 feet -- still climbing -- 10,248 feet and leaving Montana at 10,300 feet and 1:10 pm. Back into Wyoming -- 10,684, pulling over and looking down at snow packs scarred by wind and probably rock falls. 10,974 and thankfully, starting down. Sign for Gardner Lake Trailhead. Mountains are hazy, even though close. Climbing AGAIN - 11,015 at a small turnoff to a viewing area. Turning back down -- more switchbacks. Several really pretty lakes and a sign saying "This is Grizzly Bear Country!" Sign: "Bear, next two miles" and then a pedestrian sign (Editor's note: imagine a stick figure with arms in the air and legs spread) looking for all the world as if the bear were chasing him! Another sign: "Open Range: Expect Cows on Road" and sure enough, about a mile further on, a bunch of cows on the side of the road. Past beautiful waterfall with one huge pointed peak just ahead. Back into Montana at 2:11 PM. Lots of small yellow flowers on both sides of the road, very cheerful. Through Cooke City and suddenly, a red fox trotting down the side of the road. Into the Northeast Entrance to Yellowstone Park at 3:03. Park Pass scores again! Driving alongside Soda Butte Creek -- wide open meadow on the left -- sun shining on the creek and making it sparkle and dazzle. Buffalo herd to the right, one so close that I would hit him if I opened the door (which I don't!). Valley is full of haze. Fishermen out in the creek which is now a river. Herds of buffalo all along the way, but at a distance. Little antelope grazing on the right. Road work - one lane road. Rocks to right and across the river on left appear to be the same cylindrical formation as Devil's Tower. Stopped at Tower Falls -- very high, couldn't see the base. Trail to the base was closed because of washouts. Around Mt. Washburn old fire area and lots of new growth. Took North Rim Trail along the edge of the canyon -- several stops for views of the falls and two magnificent buck deer with their horns still in velvet -- and two little chipmunks! Leaving the Rim Road and heading for West Yellowstone since it's getting late -- cars stopped for a buffalo who crossed the road and then walked right by us -- I could have touched him, I think, and did take his picture through the rolled-up window! Past some lakes with steam rising -- another very peaceful meadow with a stream meandering through it, probably Gibbon River. More geysers in the distance. River almost clear -- could see the bottom, then rapids and fishermen. Beryl Spring -- about 3 strong steam vents, close enough to smell. Past a lot of fairly new growth, including some little pines that would make perfect tabletop Christmas trees. Elk out in the meadow -- another grassy meadow with the sun shining on the Madison River, turning it shimmering silver so that it looks like one of the molten silver necklaces. It reminds me of a Kinkade painting with the steep hills as a backdrop. Up on the ridge of a hill, a tree with an eagle's nest silhouetted against the skyline. A whole lot of cars crammed into one little pulloff -- "they think it might be a bear!" We drive on. Another stoppage -- another buffalo right by the roadside. Back into Montana at 7:26 and into West Yellowstone -- John drove right to the cabins where we stayed last year and got the same one for us. Drove back into town to check on the Pancake House -- found The Book Peddler (teacup notecards) and a pizza place - Pete's Pizza -- delicious! A souvenir shop with postcards of Tower Falls and cardinal and hummingbird notecards for Mom and Joanie. Back to the log cabin -- mail and bed! 228 miles.

Up, coffee and tea, and out -- drove around the historic district, including the Sheridan Inn where Buffalo Bill used to hang out and even hold auditions for his Wild West Show. Drove by Trail End Mansion, built 1908-1913 in Flemish Revival style -- very impressive. Soon after it was finished, the owner, John Kendrick, was elected governor, then to the U.S. Senate and so it was only used a summer home until after he died in 1933 -- the widow and family lived there then. As John said, "I would be happy to live in the carriage house!" On to Perkins (Restaurant) for a light brunch and restock of muffins, then on the road to Little Big Horn. Crossed into Montana at 1:18 PM. Sign: "white markers (cross shaped) represent highway fatalities." Mile marker 553! A few miles later, crossing the Little Big Horn River -- very tranquil. Up to the park -- National Park pass rules! (editor's note: senior citizens can pay a one-time fee and get a lifetime pass to National Parks for themselves and passengers. It really paid off on this trip!). Got to the visitor's center just a few minutes before the 24-minute movie, which was excellent. Great exhibits, including pictures that the Indians had drawn of the battle. There was a quotation on the wall of the visitor's center from Black Elk which I meant to go back and fill in in my journal, but I perceive that I neglected to do so -- will have to research that. We got in on the last part of a ranger's very dramatic presentation of the battle and at the end, a passionate questioning of war and whether it ever accomplishes anything. He ended by saying, "Every marker you see out there -- remember! Behind every stone is a person -- a history -- a life -- that was cut short!" Out to the monument which stands on the crest of the hill where Custer made his "last stand". Across the trail to the American Indian memorial. Scattered across the hills are white granite markers showing where soldiers fell and a few red granite markers showing where Indians fell. One marker said, after giving the Indian's name, "A Cheyenne warrior died here, defending the Cheyenne way of life." There was a similar one for a Lakota warrior. They don't really know how many Indians were killed because they gathered up the bodies and took them away. Drove out a long narrow trail with various markers alongside showing the progress of the battle. At the end of the trail was a place where some of the men were under siege but survived. The hills were so peaceful and the river winds slowly through the ravines -- it was hard to imagine the terror that they must have felt. It was truly a battle with no winners -- the Indians defeated this group of soldiers but they brought down wrath and retribution on their heads. They were fighting to defend their lands and their way of life but in less than ten years they had lost both. John and I agreed that while the afternoon was very informative and educational, we both came away heavy-hearted. One note of brightness -- every year on the anniversary of the battle, the Indians hold a gathering to pray for world peace. If ever a battlefield taught the lesson of war's futility, this one does. It is truly a haunting place. One quote that was in the visitor's center: "We did not ask you white men to come here. The Great Spirit gave us this country as a home. You had yours ... we did not interfere with you ... we do not want your civilization!" (Crazy Horse) One note: the air is all hazy today -- not nearly as clear as when we came through western Montana last May. Not sure if it is a summer heat haze or wildfire smoke. We've seen quite a few burned areas, some larger than others. Into Billings, checked into Motel 6, Room 252, short tour of downtown, supper at Cracker Barrel, then back to the motel to do a couple of loads of laundry and on to bed. Pulled back the sheets and heard a "clunk!" -- peeked under the bed and there was a Blackberry! John called the front desk and they said just turn it in when we checked out. John asked me if it was turned on and I said, "How should I know?' At least he didn't have to head down to the office that late. 116 miles.